The UN-118 also has a useful 60-hour power reserve, and is would by a “Magic Lever”mechanism. The rotor has four adjustable masses for regulation, and is attached to a silicon hairspring Unlike preceding generations of marine chronometer models that had integrated lugs, and an integrated strap was stiff and sometimes clunky, the Marine Torpilleur has conventional lugs that take an ordinary strap, making it easier to wear. Like the dial, the case finished neatly and simply, with the narrowly-knurled bezel being the only fancy element. A bowl-shaped case middle that slopes inwards towards the back also helps, while giving it a smaller footprint than the bezel diameter. Measuring 42 mm by 11 mm, the Marine Torpilleur has the wide-but-thin proportions that give it a slightly more refined profile. Regardless of colour, the dials are all simple but well executed enough. That said, none of the dials capture the slightly rough but eminently functional look of the brass dials found on vintage marine chronometers, which would have been a nice touch.Īnd UN debuted a limited-edition version with a fired enamel dial last year that’s the most appealing, though it costs about 20% more. The other variants with grey or blue dials have a radial brushed finish that is slightly more lively. This particular variant in rose gold has a white dial with an eggshell texture, giving it the most retro look. The only downside is the lack of luminous paint on the dial, which means it cannot be read in darkness. Though classical in style, especially with the tall Roman numerals and spade hands, the dial is functional and easily legible. It’s characterised by the power reserve indicator at 12 o’clock, an oversized seconds just below, and also a date window that manages to be unobtrusive. The design is admittedly a generic one – all marine chronometers looked alike, more or less – but sensible and effective. UN was a leading producer of marine chronometers – a clock mounted on a gimbal to keep it level regardless of a ship’s motion – in the late 19th and early 20th century, giving it a legitimate claim to the marine chronometer dial design. That said, the Marine Torpilleur is offered in other guises: metallic blue or grey dials that are definitely more lively, or the Military edition, which looks, well, more military.
Conversely, the weakness of the watch is very much its strength – the design is classical, but for some it will be plain. The result is pretty much the opposite of the typical modern-day sports watch – sporty but low key. The watch is largish but slim, with a dial that’s essentially a replica of a marine chronometer dial, and a 50 mm water-resistance rating. So from a technical perspective, it is a strong value-buy. That sets it apart from most watches in the same price segment, because the Marine Torpilleur has a competent dial and case, but an excellent movement. The Marine Torpilleur is an interesting proposition because it’s a fairly thin sports, or at least sporty, watch that has an obviously classical design that still manages to be functional. It manages that because the design is based the marine chronometer, a classical yet functional instrument.Īnd the Marine Torpilleur is powered by the excellent, in-house UN-118 movement, while being priced at a little under US$7,000 in steel. (NB: The version pictured here is in rose gold and naturally costs more the steel model is priced under US$7,000.) Initial thoughts Several generations later, the design is now found on an entry-level model that is surprisingly accomplished despite being quite affordable, the Marine Torpilleur 42 mm. Originally introduced in 1996 as the Marine Chronometer 1846, the watch was one of the brand’s signature models during the tenure of former owner Rolf Schnyder, a larger than life entrepreneur who made Ulysse Nardin (UN) a presence in contemporary watchmaking. One of the longest-lived models in the Ulysse Nardin line up, the Marine is modelled on vintage marine chronometers, the precision clocks in gimballed boxes found on ships of old. Facebook Linkedin Twitter Pinterest Weibo Mail Instagram
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